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小昭寺介绍--一点小知识

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发表于 2010-9-25 08:52 | 显示全部楼层
是班禅大师用神通知道另一半在哪个仓库的。打电话过去叫当地的人找出来的。而且佛陀亲自装脏的宝贝全没了。
发表于 2010-9-25 18:21 | 显示全部楼层
原來....如此
班欽喇嘛以此接續的功德
利益人天
應該有所感應的!:loveliness:
发表于 2010-9-25 18:43 | 显示全部楼层
原帖由 如法 于 2010-9-25 08:52 发表
是班禅大师用神通知道另一半在哪个仓库的。打电话过去叫当地的人找出来的。而且佛陀亲自装脏的宝贝全没了。


请问消息来源?恐怕没实在依据。
以下是瑞布活佛写的详细纪录,很清楚,人名、经过等等都列明了,清清楚楚的,连班禅大师具体请他们吃什么都记录了下来,而且涉及的很多人现在也还活着。

明明是别人自己找到,电话通知班禅大师过来确认一下的,连电话号码都写明了是554464,班禅大师是被电话通知的,不是他什么神通电话通知别人。整个经过哪来神通了?
当然,班禅大师肯定很厉害。如果确有其事,我们都乐于八卦推广,甚至来点文化修饰(即“夸张),可是,没有基本事实或依据的事,我们不要说。



In the wake of China's liberalization policy towards Tibet, a meeting on religious affairs was held in Beijing in 1981. At the meeting, the Tibetan delegates (including me) pleaded vigorously for the repatriation of Tibet's religious treasures, plundered during the Cultural Revolution and now gathering dust in China's storehouses. Unfortunately, nothing came of our request in that year.

However, in late 1982 the Religious Bureau of the Tibet Autonomous Region summoned a meeting in Lhasa—attended by representatives from the Religious Association of `TAR', the Department for the Preservation of National Treasures, and several other official bodies. During the meeting, Baba Kalsang Namgyal, an official from the Cultural Bureau of `TAR', announced that the authorities in Beijing had ordered the reinstatement of Tibetan religious artifacts to their places of origin.

Phuntsok Yonten from the Religious Bureau of `TAR', staff member of the Norbulingka, Karma, and I were to journey to Chengdu, Taiyuan, and Beijing to track down such items as remained. I was appointed to lead the team and we were to be assisted by Demo Rinpoche's daughter, Yangdon, as our interpreter.

This decision was the result of numerous factors: our appeal during the 1981 meeting, a series of concerted requests from the Panchen Lama and several other high lamas of Amdo, Beijing's desire to lend credibility to their professed policy of liberalization and religious freedom in Tibet, etc.

Right from the time I was told to go to China, I had made up my mind on the focus of our mission: the upper half of Jowo Mikyoe Dorjee.

The statues of Jowo Sakyamuni and Jowa Mikyoe Dorjee have been revered as the nation's most sacred religious treasures since their arrival in Tibet in the early seventh century.

Although the image of Sakyamuni remained almost intact at the Jokhang in Lhasa, that of Mikyoe Dorjee had been hacked in two, and the gold and jewel-encased torso carted away to China. The recovery of the upper half of this national treasure would be of immeasurable significance and joy to all Tibetans.

Immediately after the meeting, I went to the Jokhang, Lhasa's seventh century central cathedral, to trace the lower half of Jowo Mikyoe Dorjee. I found it with the help of the Jokhang's caretaker Lobsang Phuntsok.

I inspected it carefully, measuring the diameter at the severed arms and waist, examining the metal components and contours, and texture of the precious ash which filled the statue as relics so that I would make no mistake in identifying the torso in China, even if it was badly disfigured.

Baba Kalsang Namgyal approached us just before our departure to China to announce that the Chinese authorities had decreed that we were to bring back only those items that were serviceable, and that we should not bring anything from the city of Chengdu.

So it was that on December 19, 1982 we left Lhasa and reached Beijing via Chengdu. On reaching Beijing, we were received by a kindly Chinese official from the Religious Bureau of China: he was to be our guide in the Chinese capital.

On December 30 we were led to a crumbling and historic building called the Gu Gong. Around the time of Emperor Ch'ien Lung, this building had been an imperial guest house: this was told to us later by an elderly Chinese woman, Tang Lin Fang.

Our curiosity was aroused by a Chinese sign over the portal of the main hall. We asked Madam Tang, a staff member of the Gu Gong and our guide in this building, to explain what it said. She explained that it read "Imperial Chapel for Long Life", and that the Tibetan statues inside it had been transferred from a foundry in 1972. Tang good-heartedly expressed her happiness that the religious treasures stored for so long in the Gu Gong would finally be restored to their original homes.

On entering the spacious main hall of the Gu Gong, we were confronted by the incredible sight of hundreds of statues of all sizes, piled until they almost touched the ceiling. The doors on either side of this hall opened on to two smaller rooms that were also filled to bursting with Tibetan religious objects. In the hall, my eyes immediately fell upon large, mutilated statues amongst the heap. Could the torso of the Jowo be one of them? It was heart-renting to see them mutilated, coated in the dust of a decade of negligence and disrespect.

As we entered the building my colleagues and I stood frozen, our faces fallen and our emotions welling. With tears streaming down my cheeks, I reached for one statue at random. And there in my hand lay a beautiful, most sacred and historically significant image of Green Tara. I took it as a good omen for our mission.

For the next few days the Gu Gong was locked for the New Year celebration. In the meanwhile, we went to a fabric mill to buy huge quantities of rags to use as padding, and also commissioned appropriate wooden crates.

On January 6, 1983, when the Gu Gong was opened again, we employed ten elderly Chinese to help and went once more to the storerooms. All this time, there had been only one thing on my mind: the missing half of the Jowo. Was it in one of these dusty heaps? Or had it been melted into bullion in one of China's foundries? Or was it right now languishing in some other part of China?

Watching the old Chinese at work, removing the piles, piece by piece and dusting them, I spotted what looked like a lifesize torso lying under a twisted heap. I shouted for my colleagues, and together we prised it out. We took it outside to the courtyard. It was so heavy that three strong men could barely lift it.

Once outside, I sent the colleagues back to their work. I sat alone with the bust and examined it meticulously. There was thick gold plating left under the armpits. But the gold plating from the rest of the statue was missing—parted from it at some stage during the journey from Lhasa to Beijing. The chest, navel, nose and right eye all bore the scars of hammering. But a fair amount of precious ash relic was still inside. The iron bars fortifying the inside of the torso were also there. When I moved the vertical bar, I could feel the horizontal bar across the shoulders move. The famous face was unmistakable. And the type of metal, the texture of the precious ash as well as the diameter at severed edges of the arms and waist all matched perfectly with the statue's lower portion in Lhasa. The goal of my mission was accomplished.

Remembering the Panchen Lama's instruction to ring him up immediately if I found anything important, I dialed Beijing 554464, the number he had given me. He asked me emphatically if I was sure that there was no mistake. I assured him, explaining all the matching details. Soon after, the Panchen Lama came and inspected the torso thoroughly. He was delighted with what he saw and pronounced that we could be ninety five percent sure that it was indeed the Jowo's missing half. When they heard about the Panchen Lama's impromptu visit, some Chinese officials of the Beijing Cultural Bureau and several other related departments rushed to the Gu Gong, joined by some staff members of the building itself.

The Panchen Lama then explained to the Chinese that in the past Tibet had two venerated Jowos, reduced to one later. Now there would again be two Jowos in Tibet, he said. He went on to say that the genuineness of China's new religious policy would be judged by their attitude to our mission, and that, therefore, they must help us. Then, turning to me, he complimented us on the find and urged us to continue to work hard. That evening he sent us tea, butter, meat, cheese, tsampa—a variety of Tibetan food in quantities to sustain us during our entire stay in Beijing.

Sonam Norbu, originally from Derge region in Kham, and one of the foremost Tibetan officials in Beijing, visited us often and helped us enormously. He showed great empathy for the Tibetan people and religion, despite the fact that he was working for the Chinese.

Later, during our stay, the Panchen Lama donated fresh gold plating for the Jowo and conducted a brief consecration ceremony. He had also ordered for a special packing crate for the precious statue.

From the Gu Gong alone, we packed over twenty six tonnes of religious treasures in over four hundred and sixty three wooden crates. The Jowo was carried to another room where we placed it facing Tibet, and prayed to it.

Statues and ritual objects made of bell and other semi-precious metals were found tossed in the basement of another derelict building known as Kongzi Miao, Confucian temple. From there we packed six tonnes of crafted metals in about another hundred crates. Although we had been ordered in Lhasa not to bring back "unserviceable" items, we did not leave even a scrap behind.

Now we were ready to return to Tibet. We decided to spend a few days in Beijing. During the time, I remembered that as a young man I had lamented the brevity of the story concerning the itinerary of Phagpa Lugu Shree's statue. This statue, the chief image in the Potala, had been taken by the Mongols, and had remained in some area near Amdo for some time until the Fifth Dalai Lama brought it back to the Potala. Unfortunately, the story was not recorded extensively enough to give us clear information, which, I used to think, was a great loss to the future generations of Tibetans like me.

Therefore, I decided to document the odyssey of the Jowo as comprehensively as possible so as not to let our posterity feel the way I did about the record of the statue of Phagpa Lugu Shree. The first Chinese we consulted did not seem interested in helping us. Then we turned to our old source: Madam Tang Lin Fang. She promised to introduce us to a Chinese official who, she said, could have the information we sought. A few days later we were led to a genial, old Chinese man.

He told us that during the Cultural Revolution, most of the Tibetan cultural artifacts were carted to China and destroyed. The statues and ritual objects of pure gold and silver were never seen again. Those of gilded copper, bell-metal, red copper, brass, etc., were ferried to Luyen, from where they were eventually sold to foundries in Shanghai, Sichuan, Taiyun, Beijing, etc. A Precious Metal Foundry, situated about five kilometres to the cast of Beijing city, alone purchased about six hundred tonnes of Tibetan crafted metals.

"However", he continued, "in 1973 it came to the notice of Li Xiannian and Ulanfu that Tibet's religious objects were being melted down into bullion in many Chinese foundries. They ordered this to stop immediately. In July of the same year, a committee of twenty people was formed to look into this: I had been one of this group. We then visited this to discover that out of the six hundred tonnes, only about fifty tonnes were left by then. They were also dumped most carelessly in the open air, barricaded by barbed wire. From the fifty tonnes, we salvaged only twenty tonnes since the rest of the objects were beyond repair.

"Then another consignment of thirty tonnes arrived from Tibet to the same foundry -- most of the artifacts were ruined in the transit. We rescued only six tonnes from this lot and those were the ones you found this time at the Confusion temple. I cannot tell you anything about the objects sent to foundries in other areas like Shanghai, Tianjin, Taiyun, Sichuan, etc. since I did not go there."

We were still in Beijing in the spring of 1983 when the Tibetan Water Hog New Year arrived. On the third day of the celebration, the Panchen Lama hosted a party in our honour to which several Chinese officials were invited. During the party, the Panchen Lama urged us to make sure that the statues retrieved from the storage in China were made accessible to the faithful in Tibet and that they did not end up in yet another storage.

The Chinese Religious Association also gave us a party, during which the president of the association presented us two thousand yuans for the renovation of the Jowo. Almost all the Tibetans in Beijing—students and officials—visited us frequently and helped us tremendously.

We were able to send about six hundred crates containing 13,537 statues on a train bound for Chengdu. Phuntsok Yonten was to go to Taiyuan to check on the quantity of Tibet's religious artifacts in storage there, while the remaining three of us were to fly with the precious Jowo. On the seventeenth day of the first month of the Tibetan calendar, which fell that year on March 2, 1983, we went to the Gu Gong for the last time and packed the statue of the Jowo.

It was 9.00 a.m. when we laid the Jowo in its special crate. As we drove off with the statue, it started raining. This was the first rain of the year in Beijing. The rain stopped as soon as we pulled up at the airport. Such timely rainfall is considered very auspicious in our religious tradition.

There were two hours to wait before the plane took off. We spent the time buying snacks and exchanging happy conversation, in the course of which I told my colleagues to remember to speak about these auspicious natural signs when were back in Tibet. "Who knows, all the deities of Tibet must be waiting for the arrival of the Jowo", I said light-heartedly. Phuntsok Yonten speculated on what his own local deity would produce for the reception. "Perhaps some strong Tibetan chang for you," I teased. While all these small talks were going on, Panchen Lama paid us a surprise visit. He was happy with the mood of jubilance. He had come to bid farewell to the Jowo. He asked us where we had placed it. We showed him. He made offerings and prayed to Tibet's revered and historic statue.

A two-hour flight took us to the Sichuan city of Chengdu. Due to some complications we could not catch the connecting flight that day. So the Jowo was housed in a temple belonging to the Religious Association of Chengdu. The monks of that temple made offerings and prayed to the Jowo in their traditional way. The next day a Chinese abbot of the Chengdu Religious Association visited us and asked to be told the story of the Jowo. I told the following:

"It is popularly believed that during the lifetime of the Buddha his image was made in the form of three or four statues. The Buddha himself blessed those statues. But only two statues survive to this day. One of these two statues depicts him as an eight-year-old and the other as a twelve-year-old. At some point in history, the statues were presented from India to the kings of Nepal and China, from where they eventually found their way to Tibet.

"The seventh century Tibetan king, Songtsen Gampo, married the Chinese and Nepalese princesses mainly, it is said, because he wanted to acquire these images as dowries for Tibet. This particular statue, Jowo Mikyoe Dorjee, is the eight-year-old image of the Buddha, and it came to Tibet with the dowry of Nepalese princess Bhrikuti Devi; the one still in Lhasa, Jowo Sakyamuni, is the twelve-year-old image, and it was brought by the Chinese bride, Wen Ch'eng."

The abbot was awe-struck by our story and asked to know how the torso of Jowo Mikyoe Dorjee had ended up in Beijing. Time permitted me to tell only a very brief story. The next day the abbot brought a large group of Chinese monks to pray to the Jowo, and so we opened the crate. The abbot sat facing the statue while the monks placed themselves in two rows on either side of the statue. We joined the prayer, although we could not pray in the Chinese language and tradition. In a melodious voice, their prayer leader started the chant.

The following morning we were visited by an official from the Religious Bureau of Sichuan, accompanied by a very reputed nun called Lung Nei, president of the Sichuan Religious Association, plus the secretary and the vice-secretary of the association and some elderly nuns. The nuns chanted in Tibetan! We were flabbergasted. We asked them if a Tibetan lama had ever taught them. Yes, the nuns were disciples of Reverend Yonten Gyatso, who, in turn, was a disciple of Khangsar Rinpoche. Reverend Yonten Gyatso, a monk of the Drepung Monastery, had preached in that border area. Although the nuns did not know Tibetan, they could read prayers from the Tibetan scriptures. They even gave us a photograph of Khangsar Rinpoche.

In Chengdu, Phuntsok Yonten caught up with us to give us the devastating news that out of the hundreds of tonnes of Tibetan statues and other objects in Taiyuan, less than one tonne had survived. The rest had been melted down. At the same time, we received a cable from Lhasa, instructing us to collect about two tonnes of Tibetan statues and other cultural items from the district of Meishan in Sichuan province to the south-west of Chengdu. These items, the cable instructed, were to be given over in Chamdo, eastern Tibet.

In Chengdu foundry's warehouse, there was five tonnes of Tibetan treasures, which we went to collect. In the beginning, the management refused to hand them over to us, claiming that they had paid the government for these items. But eventually we managed to retrieve them. We searched in this lot for historically significant, very sacred, or those with valuable ingredients. Sadly we found none. Picking out only about forty cymbals, we left the rest of the items in the care of Chengdu Religious Association.

At a party hosted in our honour by the Chengdu Religious Association, we met Lithang Sogdrung Tulku and several other Tibetan tulkus (Tulkus are reincarnated lamas) based in Chengdu. We told the tulkus that we had left some five tonnes of Tibetan religious items with the association for distribution to monasteries and temples in Tibet and that a particular big statue of the Buddha was to be given to the Lithang Monastery. The Tibetan lamas were delighted with these donations and thanked us. There were quite a number of Tibetans in Chengdu, some of them high-ranking officials in Chinese administration, and they did everything they could for us. Whether they had faith in religion or not, they certainly harbored strong feelings of Tibetan nationalism.

On March 29 we went to Chengdu airport and spent the night there. Next morning, at 6.00 a.m. (Beijing Standard Time) we took off. About half an hour later we were flying over Tibet. A great feeling of nostalgia engulfed us as we saw the familiar mountains of our homeland. Huge plumes of snow blowing from the summits of some mountains looked like the smoke from great incense offerings. Some cloud formations resembled mandalas while others looked like curling white scarves.

We were certain that several cars and a traditional reception with religious trumpets, white scarves, incense offerings, etc., would be waiting for the Jowo at Lhasa airport. We were wrong. Far from a splendid celebratory reception, there was not even a separate car for the Jowo. Tseling Rinpoche and Sengchen met us in the only car that had come for the reception. The statue of the Jowo and I crammed unceremoniously into their car.

My colleagues had to wait for public transport. They were puce with anger, and so was I. Actually there was an important political meeting going on in Lhasa at that time and all the official vehicles were requisitioned for that purpose.

When we reached the Jokhang there was a throng of thousands of devotees carrying scarves, smoldering incense, fresh flowers, etc., waiting to welcome the Jowo. Inside, I made straight for the altar of Jowo Sakyamuni and placed my offering of fresh flowers and fruits. A temporary throne facing the statue of Jowo Sakyamuni had been made, and on this we reverentially placed Jowo Mikyoe Dorjee. There was overwhelming joy and emotional relief at the reunion of both the Jowos in Tibet after such a prolonged separation.

Prayers were conducted for the spread of the Buddha dharma, for the happiness of all sentient beings, and for a long and successful life of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. During the prayers, ceremonial rice and tea were served. At the end of the ritual, I was presented with a congratulatory scarf and money by the chief caretaker; the rest of the staff members of the Jokhang then each offered me a scarf.

Rumours had been whispered from some quarters insinuating that this might not have been a real torso of the Jowo. But when the staff members of Jokhang put the two halves together, even the folds of the robe, as carved on the statue, matched perfectly, confirming without a slightest shred of doubt that there had been absolutely no mistake.

Now it was time for the renovation and relic-offering. The responsibility for offering relics was entrusted to the Religious Bureau of Lhasa city. We were called to attend a meeting to this effect. During the meeting, it was decided that, for the time being, simple relics would do. This is because all the Tibetans hoped that the ultimate relic-offering will be done by His Holiness the Dalai Lama when he returns to a free Tibet. The meeting also decided to build a new lotus seat for the Jowo. About fifteen kilos of silver and a sizeable quantity of other metals was donated by the religious institutes to whom we had distributed the statues and other objects repatriated from China.

The original jewel-encrusted crown and ear-rings of Mikyoe Dorjee were with the department in charge of Norbulingka treasure. We tried to recover them, but all our requests were turned down. Finally we had to make a new crown and ear rings from a mixture of gold and silver.

In 1985, when renovations to the Ramoche Cathedral, the original seat of Jowo Mikyoe Dorjee, were almost complete, the beloved national treasure was taken to preside, once more, over its home of thirteen centuries.
发表于 2010-9-26 01:10 | 显示全部楼层
原帖由 上善如水 于 2010-9-24 11:03 发表
小昭寺位于小昭寺路上,和大昭寺距离不远,从大昭寺去北京东路再拐进小昭寺路即达,大概也就是十分钟路程而已。本书介绍的锡德扎仓、策墨林、长寿寺北方、三怙主殿、也都在同一条路上;


老大这几个有详细的介绍吗?
——锡德扎仓、策墨林、长寿寺、北方三怙主殿
发表于 2010-9-26 06:35 | 显示全部楼层
原帖由 安吾 于 2010-9-26 01:10 发表


老大这几个有详细的介绍吗?
——锡德扎仓、策墨林、长寿寺、北方三怙主殿


附。
发表于 2010-9-26 06:37 | 显示全部楼层

策墨林 Tsemon Ling

策墨林位于小昭寺和锡德扎仓之间,从小昭寺徒步可达,朝圣者可从小昭寺路找策门林一巷走进(从策门林一巷巷口走进,到尽头右拐继续走,到尽头左拐再走到尽头就是,但必须再左绕到建筑物正门才能进入,正门上有汉字写着“策门林寺”),或从北京东路找策门林二巷的巷口(在丹杰林路口对面)走进,寺院在巷内左边。寺院虽说距离小昭寺只有几分钟脚程,和锡德扎仓也只是一墙之隔,却比较难找,可在有需要时找拉萨本地藏人问路(当然,对很多人来说,分辨本地或外来藏人可能已经不太容易)。由于寺院当年势力范围广大,这里整片小区被广义称为“策墨林”,问路时必须刻意说明是要找策墨林寺院。
这座寺院的名字也译作“策门林”、“ 策满林”、“ 策默林”等,是四大林之一(其他三座为丹吉林、功德林、策觉林),同时也是拉萨的五座摄政邸所之一(其他三座为丹吉林、功德林、锡德扎仓、木如寺)。
有关策墨林的寺名,有两种说法,一说为出自其内供奉的长寿佛之藏文发音“策巴美”,另一说为由道光皇帝御赐寺名。
策墨林喇嘛世系是西藏有名的转世世系之一,其第一世曾担任摄政及第八世DL喇嘛(1758-1804)之师长之位;第二世任摄政、第七十三任格鲁派法王甘丹赤巴、第十世DL喇嘛(1816-1837)之师长;第三世亦任摄政之位,并为第八十七任甘丹赤巴。策墨林寺,正是策墨林喇嘛世系的府第和私人寺院。
寺院建筑主体本来分白宫和红宫,为不同时期所建,白宫乃第一世策墨林喇嘛所建,红宫则由第二世主持兴建。文革后重建的策墨林,只占原来寺院建筑的一部分,其他殿堂现在是民居、小型工厂等,僧俗共处,很难称得上有气派。
由于策墨林在教规上隶属格鲁派色拉寺昧院,除了释迦牟尼、宗喀巴大师、历代策墨林仁波且像以外,这里也供有色拉寺昧院的主供护法塔乌。进入殿中,左边的长条形配殿供有不动佛等;殿后方相通的左配殿、中配殿分别供奉塔乌、大威德金刚,右殿则供奉释迦牟尼;右边的长条形配殿供有三祜主等。






四大林和五座摄政寺院:
拉萨有四大林和五座摄政寺院。这两种截然不同的分类、组合,引致了很多误解,大家以讹传讹,导致在绝大部分相关书籍、介绍文字中,都把四大林和摄政寺院混淆了。
在最传统、最原始的说法中,四大林是四座名称以“林”结尾的寺院合称。所谓的“林”,是藏文中“洲”的意思,很多西藏寺院以此为名,譬如色拉寺的全称是“色拉大乘洲”、川北著名的大藏寺,正式名称是“大藏任运成就洲”等等。拉萨著名的四大林,传统上本指丹吉林、策墨林、功德林、策觉林此四座建立年代相近的寺院,其中丹吉林、策墨林、功德林在历史上同时也是摄政邸所,而建于1790 年的策觉林,则是八世DL喇嘛经师噶钦仁波且的驻锡之地,并无出过曾担任摄政的寺院成员。
在西藏历史上,共有六个世系的大师担任过摄政,全权负责西藏政教事务,他们分别是第穆仁波且、策墨林仁波且、达扎仁波且、功德林仁波且、热振仁波且和德珠仁波且,前四世系分别和丹吉林、策墨林、功德林有关,热振仁波且的拉萨邸所为锡德扎仓,德珠仁波且邸所则为木如寺。可能是因为丹吉林、策墨林、功德林、锡德扎仓的寺主都曾出任摄政,其设计风格也相近(这是因为策墨林、功德林、锡德扎仓的修建均以丹吉林为设计蓝图),后来一些史书便错误地把它们并列为四大林了(实际上,热振仁波且的邸所一般被称为“锡德扎仓”,极少称为“锡德林”),而且更错误地认为四大林就等于摄政寺院。
丹吉林、策墨林、功德林、锡德扎仓、木如寺这几个地点,既是摄政位于拉萨的正式官邸,同时也是历史上有一定名气的寺院。
如果严格地说,四大林为丹吉林、策墨林、功德林、策觉林此四者;摄政寺院则指丹吉林、策墨林、功德林、锡德扎仓、木如寺。
发表于 2010-9-26 06:38 | 显示全部楼层

锡德扎仓 Shide Dratsang


锡德扎仓距离小昭寺不远,和策墨林几乎只是几座建筑物之隔,但从策墨林找去却不容易(从策墨林出门右拐走到尽头左拐走到尽头右拐走到尽头再左拐走到尽头再右拐再走到尽头就是)。不享受寻幽探秘的人,可从北京东路找到策门林四巷,从巷口直接走到尽头就是。

锡德扎仓也被称为“锡德林”、“ 惜德寺”、“ 锡堆寺”、“ 夕德扎仓”、“呼征寺”等,是曾任摄政的热振仁波且的拉萨寓所和管辖的寺院,即拉萨的五座摄政邸所之一(其他四座为丹吉林、功德林、策墨林、木如寺)。虽然它不是传统说法中的四大林,可是后世的一些史书常把它取代了策觉林而列入四大林组别里。

有关锡德扎仓之名,有多种说法,其中一说是寺院前身为藏王赤松德赞(815-836)始建,后经历代搬迁,最终搬进现址的四方建筑物而名(“锡德”和藏文数字“四”相关);另说为由于最初寺院只有四位僧人而得名。

热振仁波且世系向来以噶登派祖寺热振寺为基地(见《热振寺》)。第一世的热振仁波且名为“阿旺措丹”(1677-1751)。在18世纪,锡德扎仓僧人正式入主现址,大约同期与热振寺建立密切关系。第三世热振仁波且在担任西藏摄政时,正式迁入锡德扎仓。从此,寺院便成为热振世系的拉萨府第。第五世热振仁波且曾任西藏摄政,同时出任现任DL喇嘛的幼年期师长。在其任期内,锡德扎仓被扩建至成为拉萨当时最高建筑物之一。

全盛时期的锡德扎仓,有四、五百常住僧人在其内居住、修行。在1957年,著名的赤江大师(1900-1981;见《南方三怙主殿》)曾在此地传授帕崩喀大师的《掌中解脱论》(见《曲桑尼院》),其开示长达一个多月,听众包括五十多位转世高僧、两千多位僧众和无数在家居士。

今天的锡德扎仓,已经沦为废墟。然而,不论从人文、历史的角度来说,由于这曾是拉萨重要寺院之一,还是值得一游。对朝圣者来说,朝圣的最终目的,不外乎是让自己在心灵上有所进益。朝圣大昭寺等富丽堂皇的寺院当然重要,可是,在这里,面对着这庞大无比的废墟,想象着它往日的辉煌,很自然就能生起对佛陀所说的“无常”之真实觉受。如果从这个角度考虑,也许锡德扎仓仍然可说是很有它的独特朝圣价值。此外,虽然本书并非为一般驴友、摄影爱好者设计,可是实在忍不住一说:锡德扎仓废墟实在是摄影爱好者的天堂。夕阳斜下时的锡德扎仓那种历史沧桑感,在别的地方确实难寻。

顺带一提,如果有空闲在锡德扎仓废墟发呆,经常会发现一些有趣的社会现象。这里虽已沦为附近百姓家小孩的探险天堂,可是如果留意观察,会发现藏族小孩不论玩得有多疯,他们主要只在殿堂废墟周边玩耍,而对中央的废置殿堂,他们大多会表现出一种小孩式的恭敬态度,从来不会玩弄残留的佛像部分;藏族成人,特别是老人,在路过这座不再有佛像的废墟时,一般仍会脱帽、微微弯腰以表示恭敬。在现在这个年代,这一种精神,恐怕在世界上别的地方很难看到。
发表于 2010-9-26 06:39 | 显示全部楼层

长寿寺 Tsepak Lhakhang



长寿寺在小昭寺路上。从小昭寺朝拜完出来,长寿寺就在寺门的左边(南边)。寺院门口有一家小商店(似乎是寺院自己经营的),还长期有几家路边露天商贩兜售哈达、草香、酥油,很容易找。
长寿寺的寺名在藏语里是“次巴拉康”。不很精确地翻译的话,“次巴拉康”就是“长寿寺”或者“无量寿佛寺”的意思。它虽然就在小昭寺隔壁,可是却不属小昭寺下寺,而在历史上由锡德扎仓管理。
这是一座小庙,可是却供奉据说为拉萨最灵验的无量寿佛像,而且据说这尊佛像是拉萨最大的一尊无量寿佛像。
在门口前的商店,有时提供写金汁祈祷红纸条服务,有需要者可以在此为自己、亲友、家中的病者或老人写名求寿。写好名字后,把红纸条带进寺殿交值班僧人即可。朝拜者亦可在殿外左侧的灯房点灯,为家人、病者、老人祈祷长寿。
在进殿祈祷、供养、顶礼后,香客一般会围绕殿堂顺时针方向绕拜。绕拜的时候,其中一种传统习俗是按自己年龄绕同数目的次数;否则也可以随力绕三、七等圈数。此外,必须谨慎观察藏人绕拜方向,一定要顺时针方向走,千万不能出错,否则容易导致其他信众反感。
从长寿寺出来,可顺道向寺外露天商贩买点纯天然草香,其中的柏香粉、堪巴草既可用来供佛,也可以在室内点燃少量以净化空气。这两种草药燃烧时,气味芳香怡人,并有消毒、预防传染病的药性。草香大概一元一大把,十分超值,正好多买几斤回家用(如果在拉萨买了陶瓷质的财瓶、龙瓶或其他易碎品,大量一小包一小包的粉末状草香正好同时作为适用的包垫材料)。实际上,大昭寺附近等很多地方都有摆卖同样的草香,可是小昭寺、长寿寺前的商贩正好聚集在寺院门口,不必刻意前往购买,很方便顺道买上带着继续走。
发表于 2010-9-26 06:40 | 显示全部楼层

北方三怙主殿 Northern Rigsum Gonpo Chapel



北方三怙主殿就在小昭寺路上,正好可以在前往小昭寺及长寿寺时或在回程顺道朝拜。它的具体位置在小昭寺路东边(如果从北京东路走进小昭寺路,它在右边),临街的门面只有一个不大的招牌,上面写的是“北:圣三部主佛堂”。
此殿堂在历史上属锡德扎仓分院(也有说是下密院管辖),但重建后却由色拉寺附近的格日尼院(见《格日尼院》)尼众所管理。
北方三怙主殿不大,分为两个小殿。往里走的小殿主供约真人大小比例的观音、文殊、金刚手三尊重建新像。靠近门口的小殿、面对佛坛时的右边,则供有原有的自生三怙主石。在90年代,西方学者曾经到临实地考察,发现殿内存有一尊残旧的北方多闻天王像,从而推论历史上的四方三怙主殿或许各供奉其对应方向的天王,然而此论点已无法验证了。



拉萨的八座三怙主殿:
拉萨原有八座三怙主殿,围绕中央的大昭寺,构成一个坛城布局,其中东、南、西、北四方位的三怙主殿乃由松赞干布启建;而东南、东北、西南、西北四维之殿则为后世所建。
时至今日,八座三怙主殿中只余南、西、北三座,乃90年代重建。原东殿的三怙主石刻等,现被供奉在布达拉宫东面山脚处。
发表于 2010-9-26 11:22 | 显示全部楼层
仔细学习啊!:D
发表于 2010-9-26 15:55 | 显示全部楼层
拉萨之行因为老大的贴子而变得很精彩,甚至同行的汉传居士也对此(包括老大)产生了极大的兴趣,真地非常、由衷地感谢。:)

今天去甘丹寺,很可惜寺院在维修,甘丹赤巴的法座、宗大师的帽和鞋子都没见到,也许业力使然?敬献了哈达,期待下次再来。
发表于 2010-9-26 16:04 | 显示全部楼层
锡德扎仓,都市中的废墟吗?明天去看看,流连一番。
发表于 2010-9-26 17:18 | 显示全部楼层
原帖由 上善如水 于 2010-9-26 06:39 发表
长寿寺在小昭寺路上。从小昭寺朝拜完出来,长寿寺就在寺门的左边(南边)。 ... ...

这是一座小庙,可是却供奉据说为拉萨最灵验的无量寿佛像,而且据说这尊佛像是拉萨最大的一尊无量寿佛像。

为上善的长寿寺介绍献上张照片:lol  

这是98年我去长寿寺时看殿僧人特许我拍摄的,那会儿还没有数码相机,照片放了10多年有点褪色,扫描了一下传上来也:victory:

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发表于 2010-9-26 17:36 | 显示全部楼层
原帖由 上善如水 于 2010-9-26 06:39 发表
......其中一种传统习俗是按自己年龄绕同数目的次数;否则也可以随力绕三、七等圈数。此外,必须谨慎观察藏人绕拜方向,一定要顺时针方向走,千万不能出错....

却是如此的说法:lol
最巧的是去长寿寺那天正好是我的生日,我就按这规矩绕啊绕......



这像真是造的特别漂亮!俺照的也很好,:loveliness: 可惜那会没有数码相机,照片洗出来放到现在色彩不好了:(

不知是什么因缘,我最喜欢拉萨的两尊大佛像,一尊是这个长寿佛,另一尊是哲蚌寺的一见解脱佛:victory: 看着就觉得亲,心里欢喜很啊!

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发表于 2010-9-26 18:06 | 显示全部楼层
原帖由 安吾 于 2010-9-26 16:04 发表
锡德扎仓,都市中的废墟吗?明天去看看,流连一番。


最有趣的是八角周边的小庙。这些不大,但原汁原味,没商业味,除很偶然看到日本人、德国人外,几乎能保证没非藏族游客,而且都没政府帮助,几个和尚苦苦坚持,值得关注一下。




长寿寺
策墨林
锡德扎仓
北方三怙主殿
下密院
木如新寺
八廓大经轮
八廓弥勒殿
财尊殿
贡嘎曲德殿
木如旧寺
达布林赞康庙
噶玛厦赞康庙
甘丹柱
南方三怙主殿
饶赛赞康庙
苍空尼院
拉萨萨迦寺
西方三怙主殿
丹吉林
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